Actually, the higher resistance does not cause more amperage to flow, but what it will cause is voltage drop across it and more heat! The problem WILL come back if the plug is not fixed. The damaged electric outlet will reduce the voltage to your appliances, and possibly damage those as well. I recommend not running any "big ticket" items like electric water heaters or air conditioners until you can replace the plug.
This problem can start due to corrosion since the electrical connections are out in the enviornment
To see if the cord is ok, make sure it is plyable flexing it back and forth near the end of the damaged plug. If it is plyable cut off the molded end. Skin back the outer sheathing exposing the individual insulated conductors. If at that point they look normal (not burned up),take an ohm meter and test the cords conductors from the stripped back end to the opposite end. If the resistance reads less than .03 or .04 ohms you should be ok. You can proceed to put a replacement end on. Any higher of a reading, throw the cord away. More then likely if not damage it will read no ohms resistance.
I'm a union trained electritian and apprentice instructor. We do this sort of thing on customers equipment every week.
Good luck and happy camping!
Bernie
2008 Denali 295BS-DSL
2000 GMC C3500 Crew Cab
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Leer topper, Mickey Thompson wheels, CIPA mirrors
Me, the Wife, the teenage Daughter, and
a Giant Schnauzer
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Problem solved. Spoke to owner of Cold Springs and within a short amount of time a Tech was sent to my site and a brand new cord was installed. Could not be happier. Two thumbs up for Cold Springs for great customer service. Next time I will check outlet with voltmeter before I plug in. I am basicly looking for a lower than 120 volt or higher than 120 volts? What range should my meter be in for 30 amp or 50 amp outlet? I have only checked house hold plugs in past. Where does black and red probe go on these type of outlets? Thanks to everyone for all your advice.
2002 Chevrolet 1500 4x4 Ext.Cab 5.3 3.73 rear
Putnam Class V XDR
Prodigy
2008 Jayco Jayflight G2 29BHS
MAXX AIR
Tornado
Reese Strait Line Dual Cam 1,200 lb Trunnion bars
I always take a meter with us and check the supply voltage prior to plugging in. Not only a for improper voltage but also for the possible loss of a neutral or lack of a good ground. IMO you should be safe anywhere from 107-108 volts on the low side to 128-129 volts on the high side. Most devices and or equipment are rated + or - 10% of their listed voltage unless specificly otherwise stated on their prospective labeling. You wont need an expensive meter to do this. A low cost digital readout one is what I suggest. Check it against another one for calibration. Keep a spare battey with it due to a worn battery can result ina false reading. And AWLAYS check the meter out with a good known source before using it to test with to make sure it is functioning correctly. I is only protecting your equipment but more importanly YOUR LIFE!
Also in the A/C votage range of the meter it wont matter which lead red or black in the recepticle goes where for A/C testing. If you were testing D/C voltage the meter would read a negetive reading if polarity in the respect to the red or black leads were switched.
The saga continues.... I was packing up to leave today and when I went to unplug trailer I noticed same problem again!!! I immediately notified staff and after some brief discussion they decided to have another cord put on trailer. The tech put a voltmeter into the outlet that he originaly replaced and it read 118 volts. This oulet turned out to be a used one from another site that was upgraded to 50 amp. One prong in the receptacle was melted and when he pulled the plug out it had a wire that was slightly melted. He suggested that I was drawing too much power by using A/C etc. If so, then why didn't the breaker trip? I was not using A/C the night before, but even if I had been using it a week straight non-stop I should not be having these problems. He suggested that it was my trailer but happily replaced the cord anyway. Could I have a bad breaker that is not tripping? Any thoughts or advice would be appreciated. I have dropped it off at the dealer to have a couple of things done with this problem being one of them. What kind of tests should they be doing to electrical system on trailer based on this problem? Thanks. Sorry so long.
It sounds to me like the campground replaced the original receptical with a faulty one. Since it had been used at another site, it probably was damaged when he installed it. The damage can come from overuse and abuse. The abuse comes from connecting and disconnecting a trailer without first opening the breaker. Since the breaker is closed, it allows an arc between the contacts because of the trailer's load. Do this enough times, and the receptacle (and trailer prongs) become pitted, thus creating more resistance, thus more heat, thus damage that leads to failure.
I'm convinced it was two bad outlets. I'm down in Dennisport, Ma at Campers Haven right arcoss street from the beach. Highly recommended by the way. Anyway, been running the A/C and other appliances and plug is nice and cool. No problems at all.
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