The truck and trailer look good but the WD bars are pointing up too much. They should be level. You need to tilt that hitch head back some more so you use more links under tension to get the same WD you have now. The way you have the WD bars, there is no room for them to move back and forth as you turn and you are going to jam something in the snap up brackets or the bars are going to hit the A frame during a turn. Something will give and you may not like the results.
I can't tell from the picture how many links you have under tension but you need at least 5. If I remember correctly, we have discussed this before. See my last post in your other thread.
Barney
2004 Sunnybrook 30FKS TT
Hensley "Arrow" 1400# hitch
2002 Ford F250 Super Duty, 7.3L PSD
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WillyCoyote wrote: Yes BarneyS, I do believe that i move the bars to the sixth chain before moving.
I was on the fifth in the pic. When I
did move the bars were level.
Are you saying you have 5 links between the snap up bracket and the bars in the 2nd picture? I have NEVER seen round bars slant that far up with 5 links under tension.
I wish I could magnify your picture more because it sure looks to me like you only have 4 or less links under tension in that 2nd picture. Are you counting the free links hanging loose or are you counting the number of links between the bars and the snap up brackets? You need a minimum of 5 links between the bars and the brackets.
Quote: When I did move the bars were level.
Moving is not going to change the angle of the bars. Only using more links under tension and/or tilting the hitch head is going to do that.
Quote: I do believe that i move the bars to the sixth chain before moving.
Why would you change the number of links before or after moving? Once you have the correct number of links to give you the WD you need, you should not change it when you decide to get going.
You have me thoroughly confused as to what is going on!
Barney
Looking at the pic myself and the bars look like they are touching the tongue.
Look deceiving in the pic I believe. I can tell you that the bars are not touching the tongue at all. In the picture there are 5 links from the bottom loop and I drove the truck and trailer on the sixth link. There are a total of 11 links on my bars. I count from the bottom up.
For clarity, a close-up photo (side view) of your final adjusted round bar hitch set-up would be very helpful.
Also, within one of the "links" that Barney had referenced in an earlier thread you posted, it also included this LINK to this Reese Installation Guide for a Round Bar WD. If you reference the "wrong" round spring bar set-up within the Reese Install Guide I think you may see some similarity to your setup in your most recent photo. The manner in which your particular ball mount adjusts tilt might be different, but the spring bar adjustment is the same.
I share Barney's concern that you may be changing the number of links ("sixth chain") that are under tension ("bars were level") without confirming the impact on the WD (weight distribution) taking place to the front of your TV.
I'm assuming that "sixth chain" is chain links under tension, and that "bars were level" thus meaning that with 6-links under tension your bars are parallel to the TT frame.
Just food for thought.
Turk2500
05 Jayco Eagle, 278FBS, UVW 7,063lbs, GVWR 9,000lbs.
Tongue Weight: Dry 913lbs/Loaded 1,200lbs.
02 Chevy, 2500HD/4x4, 6.0L/4:10, EC/LS/SB, Prodigy, GCWR 16,000lbs.
TV/TT loaded: 14,700lbs.
Putnam XDR Class V, Reese HP Dual Cam.
00 HD Road King Classic.
as recommended before, go weigh it axle by axle, both empty and fully loaded (WD
adjusted).
Post those numbers.
I still think your hitch head needs to be angled back some more. This gives the
WD bars more travel. Plus those bars 'appear' to be pointing too high.
Otherwise, I'd just be guessing.
Also note that these things are designed/engineered not for the good days out
there, but for the bad day or worst day out there when you'll need every ounce
of safety factor (sizing, proper componentry, etc) and proper setup. Either it is
there spot on, or isn't. You'll have no time to go back to the store for bigger,
better, or to re-setup.
Plus a 'half ton', so most likely "P" rated tires. Consider moving up
to the next higher class tire the next time your truck needs tires. I
always recommend "LT" tires for any TV.
-Ben Picture of my rig
1996 GMC SLT Suburban 3/4 ton K3500/7.4L/4:1/+150Kmiles orig owner...
1980 Chevy Silverado C10/long bed/"BUILT" 5.7L/3:73/1 ton helper springs/+329Kmiles, bought it from dad...
1998 Mazda B2500 (1/2 ton) pickup, 2nd owner...
Praise Dyno Brake equiped and all have "nose bleed" braking!
Previous trucks/offroaders: 40's Jeep restored in mid 60's / 69 DuneBuggy (approx +1K lb: VW pan/200hpCorvair: eng, cam, dual carb'w velocity stacks'n 18" runners, 4spd transaxle) made myself from ground up / 1970 Toyota FJ40 / 1973 K5 Blazer (2dr Tahoe, 1 ton axles front/rear, +255K miles when sold it)...
Sold the boat (looking for another): Trophy with twin 150's...
51 cylinders in household, what's yours?...
Barney is right, the bars are pointing way up and there is no way one link is going to make them level. You want 4-5 links min under tension. Barney is also correct, tilting the head back will allow you more links under tension while providing the same W/D.
A close up pic would be very helpful. We are just trying to help you.
BTW You have a very nice combo there.
NCH
2000 Ford F350 4X4 PSD,CC, DRW
4:10's, BTM Muffler, Isspro Gauges,
Coolant Filter,CCV Mod
FTVB , Ford AIS
6.0 Cooler,SCT2 W/DP's 40 tow & 80 econo,Zoodad mod
2005 Keystone Hornet 30BHSS
Reese Dual Cam
Family of 4 saved by Grace!!! MY TRUCK OUR TRAILER
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Are you talking about LINKS UNDER TENSION or what????
