My Honda EU2000I will barely run my 13.5 A/C and it really does not like it. EVERYTHING else muct be off and I have to set the temp on max cold so the compressor does not try to cycle. If it does, the residual head pressure will raise the starting current required to more then the Honda will do. The good news is that I don't really need to do this very often.
Now I could ourchase another Honda to twin up, but I am curious about the new High efficiency A/Cs that have come out recently. It would be an easy swap in, nothing else to pack around and maintain, and even is less expensive than the Honda. Not to mention I could probably sell my existing A/C as it has low hours on it.
We have had the Coleman Mach 3 PS (power saver) on our last two trailers and while I do nor dry camp where I need AC our EU 2000 has started and run our AC in the few test I have run in the mid 90 deg. I think that you are ever planning on running your AC on a generator you should definetely consider a high efficiency unit. They don't cost much more and use about 4A less (13.5K BTU only)
Dick
* This post was
edited 07/05/08 06:44am by dclark1946 *
We tested them and got cold starting amperages ranging from 11.5 to 14.5 IIRC.
BUT, if the cycle timer doesn't allow for enough time to completely remove the head pressure we've seen amperage values approaching the "lock rotor values" of upwards of 50 amps when on shore power on "warm starts". We saw several AC units both the new efficient units and the older ones stall out twin Honda's due to this problem.
Problem is shore power can take VERY high momentary surges, but a genset is limited to it's maximum output.
We've never gotten a good response on if the units in question can be modified to increase the delay so the pressure would be gone.
It shows that the amperage is 14.5 maximum. I have installed many "Efficient" air conditioners and they still use a compressor rated to use a certain number of amps, even if in actual useage the amperage is lower, the National Electric Code requires sizing the minimum circuit amperage a certain way - so because the compressor can safely use 12 or 13 amps, then fan can safely use 1.5 or so amps, then the minimum circuit amperage is higher than the unit might consume on a warm day.
While I might say the A/C can be started on the single honda, remember the "Fine Print" that generator is rated at 1,600 watts, and the A/C will use just about that many watts on a warm day, and more than those watts attempting to start the compressor.
So I would say the 1,600 watt Honda generator is undersized for the load you are asking it to run. Just because it has a 2,000 watt 30 minute rating does not mean it will work right.
I would also suggest buying the Honda here or ask for the lowest price in another post. I have heard that twin Honda's have no problem starting a 15,000 Btu A/C unit, and that will solve your problem - whereas replacing the A/C and then testing it out might not solve your problem, and you will still need to increase the generator capacity and sell off the used A/C unit. Also installing a 120 pound A/C on your roof is no piece of cake unless you have scaffolding to set the unit on or a forklift to lift it up there safely, like the dealers have. And if you ask your 1,600 watt Honda to put out 1,800 watts for a long time, it might not have a long life.
Mayberrys.com They seem to offer a great price and have been around for many years.
If my A/C ever goes out I am going to get the quietest unit I have ever heard, that is a Carrier Brand ducted A/C unit.
I just checked my A/C with a ampmeter and it draws 11.5 amps on low fan speed and 12.3 amps on high fan speed with 70F inside and 100F outside at 110 volts. Increase the outdoor temperature and the amperage will go up. Also a higher indoor temperature will increase the freon pressures, so the amperage will go up.
Fred.
Money can't buy happiness but somehow it's more comfortable to cry in a Porsche or Country Coach!
I run a coleman polar cub (9000 BTU) with my honda 2000. I would NOT EVER think of running anything bigger with the honda 2000. At sea level on a warm (not HOT) day the 2000 does fine if a few lights are on, and the batteries charging at say 20amps from my charger. Problem is that at high altitude (5,000 ft) on a HOT day the generator runs the A/C fine, BUT I have to be careful about other loads once the A/C starts to cycle. to many lights, to much draw from the charger will trip the generator overload on an A/C start.
The main problem isn't when the A/C is running, which the high efficiency units help on, it's the starting current, which is mostly dependent on the motor design, and there isn't much that can be done to drastically reduce that on an induction motor. Yes soft start capacitors will help, they basically reduce peak starting current with a lower current over a longer period of time. You still need the same total energy to get the compressor motor running. Couple staring current demand with an inverter generators intolerance of overloads and you end of up with starting problems.
Golden HVAC:
I appreciate your thoughtful post, but there are 2 different Coleman Mach III units. The one that you linked to is the standard Mach III. The one I am referring to is the Mach III PS (power saver) that has a running draw of 10.2 Amps instead of the 14 Amps for the standard model. As posted above though, the start up current can still be very high.
Quote: The main problem isn't when the A/C is running, which the high efficiency units help on, it's the starting current,
This is another one of those "it depends" items. I offer as evidence my 15 kbtu RVP/Coleman (not high efficiency) air conditioner. On a 100 degree day, the eu2000i started it (with a lot of grunting and choking for a few seconds) and ran it just fine at first with a 10 amp current draw. But over the next 10 minutes, the current slowly ramped up past 15 amps, right through the capacity of the eu2000i.
My reading on this site kind of indicated that running the A/C isn't the problem. But that running the A/C at less than what its trying to pull can cause damage to the unit.
This whole discussion on the newer high-efficiency 13.5K BTU A/C's running on a single Honda 2000i generator begs one more question - can a start up capacitor kit be installed on these new high-efficiency A/C's just like is possible on the regular 13.5K BTU A/C's .... or do these newer units automatically come with it?
It seems like if they don't normally have the capacitor starting kit installed and it's possible to install it, then these low energy A/C's should wind up being just about perfect for the 2KW Honda - with both startup and running current loads being much better.
Just as side note, if it turns out that these new A/C's can be made to run reliably on a single Honda 2000i - how about the ULTIMATE setup .... running a new 13.5K BTU high-efficiency A/C on two paralled Honda 1000i generators! Then you get the best of all worlds - quiet and low fuel consumption inverter generator power when running your A/C or microwave, plus only 29 lbs. weight for each genny when moving them around for 2000 watt use or when using only one for 1000 watt use to power chargers/converters for topping up your MH batteries periodically. ALSO NOTE that twin Honda 1000i's have another advantage over a single Honda 2000i: The Honda 2000i is rated for 1600 watts running, while a single Honda 1000i is rated for 900 watts running - hence twin 1000i's provide 1800 watts running!
* This post was
edited 07/06/08 09:18pm by pnichols *
Quote: how about the ULTIMATE setup .... running a new 13.5K BTU high-efficiency A/C on two paralled Honda 1000i generators!
I agree with the principle here. The drawback is that two 1000s cost more than a single 2000. I didn't try running any numbers but I estimate that the economic breakeven point with the fuel saving is many years out. Without the more efficient air conditioner, one could do the same thing now with a 1000 and 2000 instead of a 3000. Upfront cost would be about the same, the units are easier to carry, but you lose the electric start and big fuel tank.
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